This New Year, we spent a week in St. John, a small, hilly part of the US Virgin Islands in the Caribbean. My husband and I had been there once before, 9 years ago, as part of a family trip to meet my brother’s fiancé’s family. But, I’ll be honest, I didn’t remember much about it, other than seeing and swimming with a whole lot of turtles when we went snorkeling (which was incredible). So, other than trying to make it back to some of the same beaches we went to before, in the hopes I’d get to see more turtles, it kind of felt like I’d be going back to a place I’d never been before.
The travels to St. John were uneventful. There was a direct flight from Houston to St. Thomas on United that thankfully left and arrived on time. Upon arriving at the airport in St Thomas, we collected our checked bags (which also thankfully arrived), and found a van taxi just outside the airport exit doors. The van took us, as well as several other passengers, to the Red Hook port for the cost of $23 per person. While on the van, we purchased ferry tickets from Red Hook, St. Thomas to Cruz Bay, St. John on the stjohnticketing.com website, which allowed us to essentially jump straight onto the next ferry when we arrived at the port. We had already booked our vehicle (a 4 wheel drive jeep, which I originally thought might have been overkill, until it wasn’t… more on that later!) with Aqua Blu, and one of their representatives met us at the Cruz Bay ferry dock and took my husband, and our luggage, to the rental agency to get the car. While he was doing that, since it was near dinner time, the kids and I went to Lovango Rum Bar to pick up take-out pizza, which we brought back to our lodging and ate while unpacking and getting ready for the days to come. As a note, they drive on the left side of the road in St. John, so be prepared to spend the whole trip forgetting what side of the road you’re supposed to drive on!
Just about all of our days on St. John revolved around finding cool beaches to lay around on, with clear water to snorkel at; and at the same time somehow or another keep the kids fed. Most of the beaches are small, with few if any services, so for all of those we just packed a lot of snacks, some peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and some water and other drinks in our coolers. There were two beaches we visited that had some food trucks nearby, so we took advantage of those when we could, as well. We also were lucky in that the place we were staying had folding beach chairs, so we brought those with us too. I’m a pretty non-bougie traveler, but I do prefer sitting in a chair over sitting on a towel on the sand when possible, so I was happy. And my husband was happy to not pay for renting beach chairs at the one beach that had that possibility (Trunk Bay), so we both win!
Maho Bay, the beach we went to on day 1, was one of those beaches with a food truck. The beach is long and narrow, with only a few feet between the road and shrubs, and the water. But the water was very clear, and we saw two big sea turtles while we were snorkeling. For lunch, we walked the ~1/4 mile to the nearest food truck, and had very enjoyable shrimp tacos. Day 2 we went to Salt Pond Beach, which is the one beach I vividly remember from our first trip to St. John, for two reasons. First were the sea turtles and the crystal clear water. Second was for something I’d never seen before, and haven’t seen since: a full halo rainbow encircling the sun, when it was directly overhead. Salt pond was about an hour drive from where we were staying, but it was worth it. The beach is decent (wide enough to play on, and big enough for people to spread out without taking other visitors’ space), and while snorkeling we saw 3 turtles, a barracuda, several sting rays, and a spotted eagle ray. And, we stopped at Salty Legs for a late lunch on the way home, and the whole crew ordered burgers which were all very tasty.
Day 3 we drove to Francis Bay, which had a very pretty beach. Unfortunately, because of the way the current was coming in, the water was silty and visibility was bad. We did get to see two turtles while out snorkeling (and saw even more breaching the surface of the water to take their breaths while we were spending time on the beach), but I guess the tradeoff for pretty sand was no-so-pretty water. In the afternoon, we drove to Klein Bay, near where we were staying, and did some stand up paddle boarding and snorkeling. We saw two lion fish (which are very pretty to see, but also horribly invasive and are on just about every islanders’ kill list), a lobster, a huge sting ray, and another barracuda.
Day 4, we spent the whole day at Trunk Bay, which is an absolutely beautiful beach within Virgin Islands National Park. The beach is wide, the sand is white and clean and soft, and there are little crashing waves on the beach that our kids let roll them around for literally hours. There is also a defined snorkeling path, with a marked trail underwater designating the route, as well as the names for a lot of the things you see underwater. It’s a very good “beginner” snorkeling option, if you’ve never snorkeled before. You have to buy tickets to get onto the beach, which we did online before we showed up (which let us skip the long ticket line). Trunk Bay also has a bar that serves food and drink, and rents beach chairs, which makes it the most full-service beach on St. John. Potentially because of this, when we arrived at 9:15am the parking lot for the beach was already completely full. So, we had to drive up four very tight and steep switchbacks, and park in a brushless indentation along the side of the road about a mile from Trunk Bay (which may or may not have actually been a legitimate place to park, but which was large enough for our car and didn’t have any No Parking signs near it). The hunt for parking was made all the more interesting because it had rained a little that morning, and the roads were slick. As we were driving up the steep switchbacks, our rear tires started spinning out, and we started sliding backward and toward the edge of the road (and whatever laid on the other side of that switchback). Thankfully, my husband was able to get the Jeep switched over to 4 wheel drive quickly, stop the skidding, and make it up the slope. So, when you do rent a car on St. John, pay attention when they tell you how to switch to 4 wheel drive… it’s not superfluous information! The walk from the car to the beach, and then back again, was tiring because the roads were so steep (and slippery), but it was well worth it. As I’ve already said, the beach is gorgeous. At the end of the day, on the drive home, we stopped at Hawksnest beach for no other reason than we saw a sign for it, the parking lot had open spaces, and we had some time before dinner. We were only there for about 20 minutes, but it was also very pretty and is on our list of beaches to spend more time at if/when we go back to St. John.
For Day 5, we hired a charter boat through Bad Kitty / Calypso Charters to take us to the British Virgin Islands. The day started with Customs/Immigration clearance, by boat, on Tortola island. It took ridiculously long (about an hour and twenty minutes), in which time we never got off of the boat; our captain just took our passports with him and waited in an interminably long line. This is in spite of our already having sent in our documentation in advance… but, what can you do? With “island time” and “government employee time” combined, I don’t know that I should have expected anything else! Once we finally got the all-clear, we went to Peter Island where we snorkeled at a place called “The Wall”, where we didn’t see much other than coral and a trumpet fish. And we snorkeled off of Norman Island at “The Caves” where we saw an octopus, and then at “The Aquarium” were we saw a few lobster. Between all of this, we had lunch at Willy T’s, a pirate themed bar/restaurant on a boat in the middle of a cove, that has a high plank you can jump off of. The kids and adults had a lot of fun with it, and we heard that as day turns into night, Willy T’s becomes a very wild place to be! When our day ended, we motored back to St. John, where we waited another hour to clear Customs/Immigration again. There was a lot of time spent waiting, obviously; and a lot of time motoring from one place to another, but the whole family had a good time. And, the charter captain was very nice and accommodating.
Dinners on St. John were enjoyable. Cruz Bay was about a 20 minute drive from where we were staying, and we didn’t really want to have to drive into dinner, just in case we had a few drinks, or didn’t want to deal with finding parking while town was busy. Thankfully, there are taxi services on the island that will take you just about anywhere. We used Chico Taxi, who was great. You’d text them to let them know when you wanted to get picked up, and where you wanted to go, and they would just show up at that time. The cost was $10 - $20 per person, each way. Over the course of the vacation, we had dinner at the Refinery (drumsticks, empanada, and conch salad were good, chimichurri steak frites was not); 1864 (swordfish, PEI oysters, steak frites, mussels, and desserts were all excellent); the Windmill Bar (beautiful views, but only ok food); and Lime Inn (very good tacos and quesadillas).
On day 6, because my husband is an obnoxiously over-cautious traveler who assumes that the worst things can always happen, we headed back to St Thomas to spend the day and evening, before our flight out of St. Thomas the following morning. You see, in my husband’s brain, “what if the ferry stops running, or sells out, and we can’t get to St. Thomas and can’t get to the airport and we miss our flight”, is a legitimate concern. I’ve gotten tired of saying, “are you kidding me?” and shaking my head in frustration, so I just went along with it. We spent the day lounging by the Mafolie Hotel pool, which has a fantastic view and could be a destination restaurant and bar spot (like the Windmill Bar was on St. John) if they got their act together. Dinner was at the Amalia Café, a Spanish restaurant that had good seafood (almejas, pulpo, caracoles, and mejillones, among others). We had an early night sleep, and made it to our flight back to Houston the next morning. The line for Customer/Immigration at the St. Thomas airport took a long time, so I’d recommend getting there plenty early, but outside of that getting home was a breeze.
Until the next adventure!